letmetellyouaboutbeer.co.uk Report : Visit Site


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    The main IP address: 216.239.32.21,Your server United States,Mountain View ISP:Google Inc.  TLD:uk CountryCode:US

    The description :the online home of melissa cole - award-winning beer and food writer and author of let me tell you about beer...

    This report updates in 15-Jul-2018

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skip to main | skip to sidebar the online home of melissa cole - award-winning beer and food writer and author of let me tell you about beer wednesday, 7 december 2016 let's build and brew it right! so, recently me and my dad spent a couple of days building a super-simple home-brew set up with material supplied by wickes (and a home-brew kit supplied by home brew depot) and you can watch the video about how we built it here on youtube and there's a bit of an emotional one here about how lovely it was to do this with my dad. there will be more to come soon, including the recipe for the diy ipa that i made as my first solo home-brew, yes, you read that right, first solo home-brew - and it doesn't suck! creating something of your own is a deeply satisfying thing to do. brewing might become a lifelong hobby, or just an excuse to hang out with your friends, sitting in a comfy chair in your shed, drinking a few brews whilst your beer kit bubbles away in the background. either way, it’s well worth trying your hand at it. once you’ve watched this video and read the step-by-step guide, you’ll know just how fun and easy it is to transform your garden shed into your very own ‘beervana’. it gives advice on how to construct a two-tiered frame to support the mash tun and hot liquor tank, how to assemble the fermentation and maturation units as well as how to secure them safely within the brewing shed. preparation & planning firstly, you need to decide on a suitable location to house your home brew. it should be somewhere dry where there is enough space to safely carry out the brewing process, so a garden shed, whether old or new, can offer the perfect spot. brewing tends to generate a lot of steam so if there isn’t much ventilation inside your shed then it’s best to waterproof it to help preserve the wood. you will also need to have access to a power source, we used an outdoor extension lead, but if you decide to put in a direct power source then it’s best to contact a qualified electrician. we built our home brew to fit the available space within the 7x7 wickes barn decorative shed. however, you can adapt these principles and measurements to fit the space you have. bear in mind that if you aren’t building your frames to the same size as ours then you will also need to find an alternative to the galvanised steel sheets, but be sure to use something sufficiently robust. if in doubt, consult wickes staff in-store or via customer services. aftercare: once the build is complete you can add a padlock or an alarm to your shed to help keep your beery bounty safe. it’s important to regularly clean and sanitise the brew shed and all the equipment, especially before and after use. hints & tips: making sure your measurements are accurate is key to ensuring that your frames are level. it’s best to mark the wood clearly before sawing so you have a guideline to follow, you can use the 90-degree guide marker on your saw or a set square to do this. your two tiered frames also need to be structurally sound, as they will be supporting the weight of your hot liquor tank and mash tun, so it’s best to measure and mark out all pilot holes to ensure your fixings are as accurate so possible. you can build your home brew on your own but it’s easier and much more fun with a helping hand, so ask a friend or family member if they can help out safety: make sure you firmly secure the timber and take care when sawing, drilling or routing. when drilling it’s also best to wear safety glasses and when routing you should wear glasses a dust mask and ear defenders. wearing gloves when handling the timber is also advised. we have designed our brew shed with a two-tier frame to make the brewing process much less labour intensive by utilising gravity. positioning the kitchen units only a short distance away also makes everything easier to reach and much safer to lift. if you aren’t following our design then bear these factors in mind when planning the layout of your home brew. offcuts of treated timber should never be burned, but need to be disposed of safely – your local recycling centre should be able to advise. step by step: preparing the frame: we need to cut the wood for the two frames. the highest wooden frame is for your hot liquor tank (hlt) and the lower one is for your mash tun. take your first piece of 45x70x2400mm wickes kiln dried timber and secure it in your workbench. measure and mark out three 460mm sections and draw guidelines then saw. with the remaining section, measure out and cut a 600mm section. write (in pencil) the length you have cut on each piece of wood and place together in a pile, do this for all the sections you prepare. take your second piece of 45x70x2400mm wickes kiln dried timber and secure it in your workbench. measure and mark out four 500mm. take your third piece of 45x70x2400mm wickes kiln dried timber and secure it in your workbench. measure and mark out three 600mm sections and cut. with the remaining section measure out and cut a 460mm piece. take your fourth piece of 45x70x2400mm wickes kiln dried timber and secure it in your workbench. measure, mark out and cut two 900mm sections. with the remaining section measure out and cut a 460mm piece. take your final piece of 45x70x2400mm wickes kiln dried timber and secure it in your workbench. measure, mark out and cut a further two 900mm sections and one more 460mm piece. you have now prepared all the timber sections for your frame. you should have 4 x 900mm sections, 4 x 500mm sections, 4 x 600mm sections and 6 x 460mm sections. routing the frame fit your router with the 20mm bit. then, set your parallel guide to a width of 20mm and a depth of 5.5mm. secure one of your 460mm sections in your workbench with the 70mm side facing upwards. rout all the way along the length of the wood. repeat this for three more 460mm sections and the four 600mm sections. assembling the top of the frames take one of the 460mm sections. measure in 15mm and draw a mark. then measure and mark a pilot hole at 25mm in from the opposite side to your routed edge. repeat this at the opposite end. drill your pilot holes. then, take your countersink bit and create countersunk holes at each end. repeat this process on another three of the 460mm sections. 11. take one of the routed 600mm sections. on the routed area, measure in 25mm from the far end and mark. drill a countersunk hole and then repeat this at both ends of all the 600mm sections. 12. on one of the 600mm sections, from the opposite side of the routed edge, measure and mark pilot holes at 15mm and 55mm for the end. drill your pilot and countersunk holes and repeat at each end of all the 600mm sections. now it’s time to glue and screw your frames together. you might want to ask someone to help you with this step - it does make life a little easier but it’s not totally necessary. make sure you’ve got an extra set of protective gear for them though, no one likes splinters! secure one of the 600mm sections onto a large level surface using clamps. 14. take one of the 460mm sections and add wood glue to the end you will be attaching to the 600mm section. make sure the routed edge will be facing inwards. put the 460mm section into position, making sure the edges are flush and either ask someone to hold it or clamp it in place. then, extend the pilot holes at 15mm and 55mm so they go through into the 460mm section. 16. fit your drill with the screwdriver bit and 100mm screws and secure in both holes on each corner. repeat this on the opposite side to create the top of your first frame. 17. take a 460mm length and add wood glue to each end. then, place it exactly in the centre of the square frame and flush with the level of the routing. the 70mm side should be facing upwards. this piece of timber will act as extra support for the hot liquor tank and mash tun. 18. secure this section by drilling a 5mm pilot hole and countersunk hole on each side before fixing in place with 100mm screws.

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